the Quechua
Inti Raymi: the festival of the Inca Empire
Our third 2018-19 team of visual storytellers journeyed to Peru to capture the spirit of the Inca. Many people know them as the Inca, however in Peru they are rightfully celebrated as the Quechuas. 3,400m above sea level lies the ancient city of Cusco. Every year thousands of people gather around this vibrant city to celebrate the Inti Raymi festival.
Today, the festival itself takes place in different locations around Cusco. Hundreds of actors come together to reenact what was once a very sacred piece of their history. However, for a period of time after the arrival of the Spanish, Inti Raymi was actually banned until the people were able to reclaim their culture.
This is their story.
project
Journal
Want to know details about the experiences of the participants and their day-to-day during the project? Find all this and more in the project journal they wrote during the trip!
In this page you can also see a short clip of “behind the scenes”.
19June 2019
Quechua
– project journal –
Hola Lima!
From various corners of the world, we fly to Lima – Ram and Tanin from Hamburg, Kieke and Marieke from Amsterdam. We have spoken to each other once via Skype, but we do not know each other. Nevertheless, our joint mission immediately creates a bond: capturing the 75th anniversary of Inti Raymi, the Inca festival of the sun. We can’t wait to get started, but due to the jet lag, we don’t get much further than a simmering “hola”, drinking a cup of tea and downloading the Google Translate App. More tomorrow. Promised.
Buenas noches.
20June 2019
Breathtaking
The one and a half hour flight to Cusco offers a phenomenal view of the Andes, making it almost a shame to start the descent. Once we land, we are welcomed by a breath of fresh mountain air and the broad smile of Saul, our guide for the coming days. Saul turns out to be a hit. He is smart, social, and practical. Immediately after we have dropped our luggage in the hotel, he takes us into the historic city and tells us one story after another. Walking through the narrow streets, where ancient Inca ruins alternate with beautiful colonial buildings, it’s almost easy to imagine ourselves living during these ancient times. While we walk and talk, we start to pant more and more.
Cusco
The former capital of the Inca empire is 3,399 meters above sea level, and it seems that we too cannot escape the well-known altitude sickness symptoms. With slightly spinning heads, we finally plunge into a restaurant. It’s ok; we have stuff to discuss anyway. How are we going to capture this spectacle for example? Who are we going to interview? And how do we come into contact with these people? Saul writes and thinks along with enthusiasm, while Kieke gives us a tip. The taxi driver, the saleswoman, the receptionist: everyone can be a participant in the festival or know someone who is involved in the festival. This means: we have to start talking to everybody! We nod. At the same time, we all realize that there is something even more critical. Something that must be arranged first thing tomorrow morning: the press passes.
21June 2019
LOLama
What is the difference between a llama, an alpaca, and a vicuna, a guanaco? With sleepy eyes, we try to wake each other up with coffee and a lama lesson. It’s working. Not much later we efficiently split our team into a commission who is responsible for coming up with general interview questions and a commission who will arrange the press cards. Unfortunately, it appears that good planning doesn’t guarantee success at the press office if they have no time for an impromptu visit from abroad. As much as we would like to get it off our chest, we will have to wait until the end of the afternoon.
Mini Inti Raymi
We need interview candidates, and therefore, we walk into the streets. Soon we are on a roll. At central square, Plaza de Armas, we meet the 96-year-old photographer who has been taking pictures of tourists for more than seventy years. He has seen Inti Raymi change slowly and is willing to tell us all about it. Almost simultaneously, Saul receives a phone call. His little niece is about to perform a mini show of Inti Raymi with her classmates, and we are welcome. We leave the square in no time, telling our new old friend that we will come back tomorrow. Along the way, we spot a lady in an atelier full of costumes. Inti Raymi? We don’t have time to ask, but we will get back to her. Without realizing it, we soak in a colorful parade that is no more than half a meter high. The whole thing is too cute, and we cannot stop taking pictures. Once outside, we go straight to the woman in the atelier. This time we walk inside. She tells us that the official atelier is across the street. We follow her instructions, knock on the wooden door, talk – read: Saul talks, we mostly smile – look around, take a few pictures and, walk outside with an even bigger smile. They have permitted us to come back the day after tomorrow to do several interviews!
Press Passes
After a late lunch, it is time to arrange our press passes. In the crowded press office, it is unclear who’s next or who’s desk is in charge of what. We surrender to the chaos until Kieke and Saul are called upstairs. It takes a long time. Too long. When Kieke finally comes down, she tells us that we can have one press card. One. There are four of us! We don’t have time to think. We must decide straight away, which name it is labeled. We unanimously decide that Ram may have it. Kieke goes upstairs again and together with Saul she talks like crazy to get the rest in. Ten minutes she returns with another question. Do we want to buy ‘tower tickets’? The festival takes place in three places, and only the first two are freely accessible to everyone. Without a press card, we will not be able to enter the third one unless we buy a ticket. A tower seat may offer slightly more options than a place at the tribune. We decide to go for it, without knowing what ‘it’ is. When Kieke finally shows us the printed press pass and the tower passes that evening, we regain some hope: there are no names on it, and they all look the same.
22June 2019
Sunny side up
The first rehearsals start in the central square at eight and we want to be there on time. Armed with our cameras we, therefore, head out immediately after breakfast. The participants are not (yet) dressed up, but it is already impressive to see all these people marching and singing at the same time.
Again luck is on our side. We end up on a little square where we suddenly come face to face with the director of the festival and the Inca – which means King, the main character during Inti Raymi. After mediation from Saul, we can interview them both on the spot. We quickly grab our questionnaire from our backpack and set ourselves up as a real camera team – what is a quick search for four photographers, but somehow it works! On top of this, the director permits us to approach all participants for our project!
Rehearsal
The rehearsals move slowly to the third spot, which is half an hour’s walk from the central square. Uphill. Once at the top, we understand why the final piece takes place at this archaeological site called Saqsaywaman. The area is so enchantingly beautiful that we rename her on the spot to be ‘sexy woman’.
Back in the city, the streets are filled again with a beautiful parade. Saul tells us that they represent around the 80 districts of Cusco that and that they are here to show themselves to the mayor. Our cameras click automatically, although we have something else on the agenda: the interview with the 96-year-old photographer. We find him in the same place as the day before, in the middle of the square. Due to the crowds, we decide to interview him in the nearby museum. We have enough time but are still slightly stressed. Unlike this morning, we now want to shoot from two different angles, and for some reason, we can’t get them. At the same time, our equipment isn’t suitable to capture the photographer’s voice. For the first time, we face the fact that none of us is a professional videographer. At the same time, this experience immediately demonstrates the strength of our team: we do not blame each other, but decide to practice the set-up the next morning.
Dwarf dreaming
After a fantastic dinner prepared by Saul and a conversation about invisible mythical dwarfs, we go to bed. Tomorrow the alarm goes off early.
23June 2019
Countdown
We stick to our word and practice the video set-up with three different camera angles. After that, we interview Saul and try to arrange batches with the JNF logo on it – a request from the organization of the festival. The latter turns out to be another thing. It is Sunday and the day before the festival: no way that we can have emblems embroidered anywhere. But, as always, there is a solution to everything. Kieke converts the logo into a Word-file and has it printed at the hotel reception. Plastic cover with a cord on it, et voila!
The festival starts tomorrow at the Qorikancha (Temple of the Sun) and then continues at the central square. Although we cannot imagine what it looks like with 750 actors and 25,000 visitors, we each try to think for ourselves where we want to stand. In the meantime, another parade passes us. It seems as if this is never-ending!
Atelier
The hours fly by, and before we know it, it is already noon and time to go back to the atelier. The area has been filled to the brim with native feather tips, costumes and (fake) gold jewelry! When several attendees also want to dress up for us, we are delighted. We quickly tap a red rug against the only freestanding wall. It’s not ideal, but at least we can start shooting. The same applies to the interviews that we hold on the single couch in the middle of the room. We have already abandoned the idea of keeping the afternoon free so that we could rest for tomorrow. Opportunities like this do not come across that often. We continue until it gets too dark to shoot, after which we eat, make backups, double-check our stuff for tomorrow and go to bed.
24June 2019
Showtime
It is still pitch dark outside when the alarm goes off, and we leave for the Qorikancha. We have no guarantee that it will work, but we want to try at least to catch the biggest dress-up ‘party’ that will take place here in a moment. It is 5:15 am when we are standing in front of the church. There is nobody except for two tailors. Hm. Upon inquiry, the participants suddenly appear to arrive at 7:30 am. We walk back towards the street, where we buy plastic chairs at two strategic places. No idea if we can use it, but we’ll see about that later. Fortunately, the first coffee shop opens, and we can warm ourselves up a bit. At half-past seven, we go back to the church, where there is already a whole army of participants. But whatever we try: we can’t go in with them. Even Saul can’t help us out. We are very disappointed, but there is no alternative but to accept what is.
Temple of the Sun
We reconsider our best spot, drink another coffee, go to the toilet, freeze our asses off and then all of a sudden the pututeros blow on their shells! The ghepa on their windpipes soon follow, just like the trumpeters, drummers and other musicians. The crowd is going crazy and squeezes itself in every corner to catch a glimpse of the whole spectacle. The same applies to us, except for Ram, who has somehow managed to talk himself on the field – later he tells us he even got into the sun temple! We are a bit jealous to see him there between all the participants, but above all, we are super proud. Go Ram!
Ode to the sun
After the first performance, in which the Inca and his right hand the Qoya have brought an ode to the sun, the entire procession leaves for the central square. Ram follows the last group of actors and re-joins us. We all shoot photos and videos like crazy, but we are struggling with the sun above and the people beside us. With difficulty, we manage to force ourselves along with the entire crowd and conquer a place at the central square.
Sacsayhuama
We are able to document the final performance that takes place at ancient site Sacsayhuaman. Walking into Sacsayhuaman feels magical: the ancient ruins are beautiful and set the tone for the performance to come. The ‘secret’ tower turns out to be a great spot. It overlooks the field where all the performers are dancing. To get a different, more close up perspective Tanin goes down, but it is a bit difficult because nobody else other than the participants are permitted on the field. However, there are a couple times where the dancers make their way closer to the audience, and at the end of the festival they are able to ask some of the dancers for some close up shots! At last, they return to the hotel nice and sunburnt.
25June 2019
After the match
After our first coffee, the conversation starts slowly. We are demolished, but at the same time excited about what we have all shot. One by one, we go through the material. We are critical of ourselves, but we are kind to each other, and although for some, it is a bit of a switch: as a team, we have gathered an almost complete picture. We take a break so that we can quickly buy a few souvenirs, after which we work out the first steps of the project and ask our last questions to Saul. As he returns home, we say goodbye to our new friend and as always that hurts a bit.
26June 2019
Home
We expect this to be a typical travel day, but nothing turns out to be less accurate. First of all, our tickets from Cusco to Lima appear to be on the wrong date. Then Ram is taken in Cusco for a body scan, Tanin loses her boarding pass, Ram is re-examined again, and not much later Tanin has to go back to show her almost expired visa for Germany. When we finally fix everything and hang high in the air half an hour later, we can hardly comprehend it, but this day is also almost over. Just like this epic Inti Raymi-trip.
27June 2020
The team is really busy processing the rest of the material! Stay tuned!
In collaboration with
Avila Reizen
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Quechua
Story
Step into the world of the Quechuas with the team! Learn more about their festival and traditions with these interviews done by the team members.
Enjoy this great video, see the Quechuas telling their story and see the beautiful colors of the Inti Raymi festival, Peru.
the Quechua
Story
The Inca or The Quechuas
We tend to talk about the Inca’s who lived during the Inca Empire, but that’s actually not correct. In pre-Hispanic days Inca was just one person, the king. This unique man was worshipped by his people, who all spoke the same language: Quechua, which means man’s tongue. Therefore Quechuas is more accurate.
Inti Raymi
Inti Raymi (Quechua for ‘Inti festival’) is the most important Inca celebration. It coincides with the winter solstice and harvest time and takes place every year on June 24th. In the Andean Mythology the Quechuas were seen as descendants of the Sun, and therefore, they had to worship it each year with a celebration. The festivity was in order to thank the Sun for the harvest that was given or to ask for a better harvest during the next season.
Not one, but three stages
Coricancha is the main temple of Cusco dedicated to the Sun, where it is said was the golden garden. Inti Raymi starts here.
From there the parade continues to the second location: Plaza de Armas, also known as the old Auqaypata or Plaza del Guerrero. This immense plaza is in the heart of Cusco.
The third and central part of Inti Raymi is performed at Saqsaywaman. This archaeological complex has an area of 3,000 hectares and is located North of Cusco and is controlled by the National Cultural Institute.
Saqsaywaman
Saqsaywaman is also known as Sacsayhuamán, Saksaq Waman or Saxahuaman. In Quechua it means literally: ‘place where the hawk is satiated’. The presence of these birds for sure has something got to do with the naming. It is one of the most impressive Inca constructions in Cuso, and at the same time one of the most mysterious ones on earth. The main wall of Sacsayhuaman for example is built in zigzag with giant stones up to 5 meters high and 2.5 meters wide – between 90 and 125 tons of weight! – and the south side is bounded by a polished wall approximately 400 meters long. When the Spanish conquerors arrived they could not explain themselves how Peruvian ‘Indians’ could have built such a greatness. Their religious fanaticism led them to believe that is was simply work of demons or people from another planet.
The play
In the last part of the festival a ceremony takes place where ancient rituals are acted out. During the Incan Empire there were four regions defined as ‘suyo’ in Quechua: Collasuyo (SE), Antisuyo (NE), Contisuyo (SW) and Chinchaysuyo (NW). Each region had its own emperor and during the ceremony each one reaffirms their allegiance to the realm and the sun god Inti. The four corners of these quarters meet at the center, in the sacred city of Cuzco as a symbolic connection between the Cosmos and Earth, and Sky and Earth.
The costumes
During Inti Raymi around 600 costumes are used. All the costumes are replicas, studied from the chronicles or from archeological discoveries. After each festival they are stored away for the following year and undergo minor alterations and touch ups . This year for example, the Inca is wearing more shawls to make him more charismatic.
Each of the four regions have their own costumes. The Collasuyo wear black and very dark red colors. The Antisuyo use a lot of feathers from the jungle. The Chinchaysuyo use belts. And the Contisuyo wear coffee/brown, cream colors, that stands for the earth of the plantation.
Forbidden by the Spanish
During the first years of the conquest Inti Raymi was prohibited by the Spanish. According to them it was not in compliance with the catholic religion. However, small ceremonies took place without major consequences. Later, after a series of Inca rebellions they officially banned the celebration in 1572 along with many other Inca traditions.
Things change
The celebration used to last nine days and took place in the main plaza in the city of Cusco. Three days before the start of the celebrations the participants had to go through a purification period in which they had to fast. The only participants of the ceremony were the king, the nobility and the army. Nowadays, Inti Raymi is celebrated on one day, and it is open to everyone.
In the pre-Hispanic days they also sacrificed a llama during Inti Raymi. The High Priest had to open the chest of a black or white llama with a sharp ceremonial golden knife and pull out its heart, lungs and viscera. The Quechuas believed that while observing those elements, the High Priest could foretell the future. Later, the animal and its parts were completely burned. At that time there was a massive golden tower at Saqsaywaman that the Inca would climb to address to the people of the empire. The High Priest would bless the people, and the procession would return to Cusco.
the Quechua
Q&A
Q: Does everybody in Peru celebrate the festival?
A: The festival is based in Cusco and relates to the Quechua people, which is why many locals celebrate the festival. Sometimes, people will travel from other cities to come watch the festival as well.
Q: How many people participate during the parade?
A: Not including the audience there are about 750 participants. Including the audience there are thousands!
Q: How long does it take to make the costumes?
A: The pieces can take anywhere from 1 week to 2 months to make. The more detailed feather pieces take up the most time.
Q: What relationship did the Quechua have with nature?
A: Throughout history the Quechua have established a very strong relationship with nature. This was seen in their everyday life as well as their ancient stories. At one point it was said that those who were mythical often emerged from a river, mountain, or a bird.
Q: How did they build the Inca walls?
A: The walls are made of very large and heavy rectangular stones. The way in which the walls were built exactly, remains a mystery just like the pyramids.
Q: When was the first Inti Raymi festival?
A: The festival has been celebrated annually since 1944!
Q: Is Inti Raymi celebrated in other countries?
A: Yes! Aside from Peru, Inti Raymi is celebrated in Bolivia, Argentina, and Ecuador!
Q: Who are some of the main characters in Inti Raymi?
A: Aside from the obvious Inca and Coya (King and Queen), there is the Willaq Uma (the Kings closest friend; often referred to as his brother), Sinchi (military general), and Tapuntay (the one who sacrifices the Llama and tells the future using it’s heart)
Q: How big was the Inca Empire?
A: The Empire expanded across 2 million square kilometers, extending into parts of present day Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia.
Q: Is it safe to eat coca leaves?
A: Don’t freak out if somebody in Cusco is offering you some coca leaves. Yes, they contain 14 alkaloids, from which cocaine is the most popular and broadly used one. Nevertheless that doesn’t mean that chewing coca leaves will give you a high or dope feeling. To get cocaine out of coca leaves it needs a chemical process with elements such as tartic acid, pure clorhidric acid, ether, and anhydrous soda sulfate, in different determined temperatures.
Q:
A:
Q:
A:
Close
the Quechua
Story
The Inca or The Quechuas
We tend to talk about the Inca’s who lived during the Inca Empire, but that’s actually not correct. In pre-Hispanic days Inca was just one person, the king. This unique man was worshipped by his people, who all spoke the same language: Quechua, which means man’s tongue. Therefore Quechuas is more accurate.
Inti Raymi
Inti Raymi (Quechua for ‘Inti festival’) is the most important Inca celebration. It coincides with the winter solstice and harvest time and takes place every year on June 24th. In the Andean Mythology the Quechuas were seen as descendants of the Sun, and therefore, they had to worship it each year with a celebration. The festivity was in order to thank the Sun for the harvest that was given or to ask for a better harvest during the next season.
Not one, but three stages
Coricancha is the main temple of Cusco dedicated to the Sun, where it is said was the golden garden. Inti Raymi starts here.
From there the parade continues to the second location: Plaza de Armas, also known as the old Auqaypata or Plaza del Guerrero. This immense plaza is in the heart of Cusco.
The third and central part of Inti Raymi is performed at Saqsaywaman. This archaeological complex has an area of 3,000 hectares and is located North of Cusco and is controlled by the National Cultural Institute.
Saqsaywaman
Saqsaywaman is also known as Sacsayhuamán, Saksaq Waman or Saxahuaman. In Quechua it means literally: ‘place where the hawk is satiated’. The presence of these birds for sure has something got to do with the naming. It is one of the most impressive Inca constructions in Cuso, and at the same time one of the most mysterious ones on earth. The main wall of Sacsayhuaman for example is built in zigzag with giant stones up to 5 meters high and 2.5 meters wide – between 90 and 125 tons of weight! – and the south side is bounded by a polished wall approximately 400 meters long. When the Spanish conquerors arrived they could not explain themselves how Peruvian ‘Indians’ could have built such a greatness. Their religious fanaticism led them to believe that is was simply work of demons or people from another planet.
The play
In the last part of the festival a ceremony takes place where ancient rituals are acted out. During the Incan Empire there were four regions defined as ‘suyo’ in Quechua: Collasuyo (SE), Antisuyo (NE), Contisuyo (SW) and Chinchaysuyo (NW). Each region had its own emperor and during the ceremony each one reaffirms their allegiance to the realm and the sun god Inti. The four corners of these quarters meet at the center, in the sacred city of Cuzco as a symbolic connection between the Cosmos and Earth, and Sky and Earth.
The costumes
During Inti Raymi around 600 costumes are used. All the costumes are replicas, studied from the chronicles or from archeological discoveries. After each festival they are stored away for the following year and undergo minor alterations and touch ups . This year for example, the Inca is wearing more shawls to make him more charismatic.
Each of the four regions have their own costumes. The Collasuyo wear black and very dark red colors. The Antisuyo use a lot of feathers from the jungle. The Chinchaysuyo use belts. And the Contisuyo wear coffee/brown, cream colors, that stands for the earth of the plantation.
Forbidden by the Spanish
During the first years of the conquest Inti Raymi was prohibited by the Spanish. According to them it was not in compliance with the catholic religion. However, small ceremonies took place without major consequences. Later, after a series of Inca rebellions they officially banned the celebration in 1572 along with many other Inca traditions.
Things change
The celebration used to last nine days and took place in the main plaza in the city of Cusco. Three days before the start of the celebrations the participants had to go through a purification period in which they had to fast. The only participants of the ceremony were the king, the nobility and the army. Nowadays, Inti Raymi is celebrated on one day, and it is open to everyone.
In the pre-Hispanic days they also sacrificed a llama during Inti Raymi. The High Priest had to open the chest of a black or white llama with a sharp ceremonial golden knife and pull out its heart, lungs and viscera. The Quechuas believed that while observing those elements, the High Priest could foretell the future. Later, the animal and its parts were completely burned. At that time there was a massive golden tower at Saqsaywaman that the Inca would climb to address to the people of the empire. The High Priest would bless the people, and the procession would return to Cusco.
the Quechua
Q&A
Q: Does everybody in Peru celebrate the festival?
A: The festival is based in Cusco and relates to the Quechua people, which is why many locals celebrate the festival. Sometimes, people will travel from other cities to come watch the festival as well.
Q: How many people participate during the parade?
A: Not including the audience there are about 750 participants. Including the audience there are thousands!
Q: How long does it take to make the costumes?
A: The pieces can take anywhere from 1 week to 2 months to make. The more detailed feather pieces take up the most time.
Q: What relationship did the Quechua have with nature?
A: Throughout history the Quechua have established a very strong relationship with nature. This was seen in their everyday life as well as their ancient stories. At one point it was said that those who were mythical often emerged from a river, mountain, or a bird.
Q: How did they build the Inca walls?
A: The walls are made of very large and heavy rectangular stones. The way in which the walls were built exactly, remains a mystery just like the pyramids.
Q: When was the first Inti Raymi festival?
A: The festival has been celebrated annually since 1944!
Q: Is Inti Raymi celebrated in other countries?
A: Yes! Aside from Peru, Inti Raymi is celebrated in Bolivia, Argentina, and Ecuador!
Q: Who are some of the main characters in Inti Raymi?
A: Aside from the obvious Inca and Coya (King and Queen), there is the Willaq Uma (the Kings closest friend; often referred to as his brother), Sinchi (military general), and Tapuntay (the one who sacrifices the Llama and tells the future using it’s heart)
Q: How big was the Inca Empire?
A: The Empire expanded across 2 million square kilometers, extending into parts of present day Chile, Argentina, Bolivia, Peru, Ecuador, and Colombia.
Q: Is it safe to eat coca leaves?
A: Don’t freak out if somebody in Cusco is offering you some coca leaves. Yes, they contain 14 alkaloids, from which cocaine is the most popular and broadly used one. Nevertheless that doesn’t mean that chewing coca leaves will give you a high or dope feeling. To get cocaine out of coca leaves it needs a chemical process with elements such as tartic acid, pure clorhidric acid, ether, and anhydrous soda sulfate, in different determined temperatures.
Q:
A:
Q:
A:
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Gallery
Ram
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Ram Paudel </br>
Ram Paudel </br>
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Kieke
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart </br>
Best Photos
Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart </br>
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart </br>
Ram Paudel </br>
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart </br>
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
Ram Paudel </br>
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart </br>
Marieke
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
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Marieke van der Heijden </br>
Marieke van der Heijden </br>
Marieke van der Heijden </br>
Marieke van der Heijden </br>
Behind the Scenes
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Tanin
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
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Tanin Kayvan </br>
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meet the
Team
Get to know who the team members are, what they do, why they joined the Foundation, their overall experience with the project, and many more details.
Marieke van der Heijden
Marieke van der Heijden
My mother always said (poorly translated straight from Dutch) “What Marie has in her head, is not in her butt.” I am afraid she’s right. As soon as my heart is touched by something, I go for it completely. Even if that means that I have to lie down on the floor in the split – which has cost me a few pants already. I try to combine my love for photography with that for the written word and my insatiable wanderlust. My work being published is my ultimate reward – like last year when National Geographic published my story about reforestation in Brazil. But what’s truly invaluable is meeting beautiful people along the way. I look forward to travel for JNF to Peru and experience apiece of ancient culture while working together with a wonderful team.
Here I am, with pinched buttocks along the side of the road. It is deadly cold, and I have difficulties keeping my eyes open. The idea was to gather at 5:15 am at the Qorikancha. An ancient church where the participants of the Inti Raymi get dress up. In my head, I could already see the colorful chaos: a mixture of exuberant feather tips proud faces and beautiful stories. Instead of that, we discovered that we were misinformed and that the participants wouldn’t arrive before 7:30am. So here I am, slightly shivering while waiting for the festival of the sun to begin.
Finding the right spot
I read that around 25,000 spectators visit the Inti Raymi. That is a quarter of the people who travel to Amsterdam on an average King’s Day but then smashed together in a few blocks. After the Qorikancha the procession continues to two other places: the central square (Plaza de Armas) and Saqsaywaman. With great difficulty, we managed to arrange press passes, but it was unclear what we actually could do with them. The big question for me, while freezing my ass off in this early morning, was: what is the best place to position myself? I decide to start on a plastic chair – for which we paid a few euros – then quickly switch to the sidewalk but I keep doubting. At this point the sun is slanting behind the buildings, but what if it would tilt over it?
We walk back to the square behind the church, with the hope of being lucky this time around.It is teeming with people and after a few minutes, it is clear that our mission is doomed. No press is allowed inside, ‘not even the Dutch press.’ I am disappointed because this is what I like to do most as a photographer: capture images full of raw and real emotions, and inside the church, it will be a colorful explosion soon. When I position myself back on the sidewalk, the sun has come out, and the streets are filling with an exciting mix of locals and tourists. My worries disappear slowly and I realize I am very fortunate to be there. I drink a cup of coffee, and just when I start to wonder what the time is, the Inca appear on the balcony of the church. I immediately zoom in with my 200mm lens and make a few shots. The Inti Raymi has started!
Out of the blue, I hear Tanin yelling that Ram is standing on the field among the participants. I look to the right, and there he is! For a moment I am jealous, but soon after that I am incredibly proud of him, go Ram! In the meanwhile, the Inca – after bringing an impressive ode to the sun – slowly makes his way down. That means the procession is going to pass by soon! Quickly I decide to change positions one more time because the sun has indeed tilted over and creates hard shades in my frame. When I finally find my spot and see the participants in front of me, I am flabbergasted. They are dancing and playing music in the most beautiful costumes. What a way to start this day!
Unexpected plot
As if we set it up, I run into Tanin and Ram after the procession passed me. Together we walk to the Plaza de Armas, where the second part will take place, although it looks more like arm wrestling. Without saying anything, the three of us think the same: we have to get ahead of the crush barriers. Since Ram has done it before, I decide to follow him. It is surprisingly easy. Our press passes open doors, and within no time, we walk on the square. “I AM ON THE SQUARE!”, I tell myself. The adrenaline is pumping through my blood while I look for frames, shady spots, and expressive faces. In the meanwhile, the Inca makes his entrance and speaks to the public from a raised plateau. My eyes follow his movements, and in my head, I try to figure out how to get him detached from the background. I move slowly back and forth, and then all of a sudden somebody pulls my shoulder. When I turn around, I look into an angry face. I have to leave the square immediately he commands me. I follow meekly, although I don’t understand what is happening.
The unknown guy drops me off at the side of the square – on what it seems to be a press place. Wait a minute: a press place? Why didn’t anyone told us? I try to capture some exclusive moments in the meanwhile, but it is hard to concentrate. Ram has also been removed, and we are both accused of the most terrible things. Especially one guy is going crazy. He keeps yelling at us, and as soon as the last participant leaves the square, he orders us to follow him. I look at Ram, and we both think the same: this isn’t any good. With an angry face, he introduces us to the head of the organization, who immediately corrects us as if we are two small children. The angry man appears to be in charge of the video registration and is convinced that we have ruined everything. Our defense that the agent permitted us evaporates in a vacuum. Ram and I shut up wisely to prevent things from getting worse. “Hand in your press pass. Now!”, the head of the organization demands us. With tears in my eyes, I obey. I can’t believe this is happening.
Note to self
Once back at the hotel, my thoughts shoot in all directions. They could have arrested us. For the first time in my life, I am terrified. An awful and scary feeling I never hope to experience again. It makes me realize how lucky I am with the freedom I have at home. Day after day. While looking outside, I try to figure out how this could have happened. I think back to the hectic pace of recent days. The fear of not having enough material soon prevailed. Especially because we had to film as well, something I rarely do, and turned out to be very time-consuming. I should have known better. Hardly ever things go as planned, but they always turn out right. Five letters Marie: T.R.U.S.T. In the corner of my eye I see a bird flying high. Fortunately Tanin, Saul and Kieke are recording the last part of the festival. Together we will capture the whole story, and wasn’t teamwork one of our main goals?
Inti Raymi, you taught me a lot in a very short time. Muchas gracias.
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Ram Paudel
Ram Paudel
Ram Paudel is a freelance photographer. He graduated in photography and media design from the University of Applied Science Bielefeld. Now he lives in Hamburg and works for clients from Hotel and travel Industrie and for content production Studios. His photographic focus lies among others in reportage and storytelling. In 2015, he photographed the last endangered hunter-gatherer tribe „Raute“ in Nepal.
JNF is following indigenous tribes and their endangered unique culture. Joining JNF is a great opportunity to contribute to protect and promote one of the oldest Inca cultures, Inti Raymi. This is a journey into the past. I´m very excited!
Every culture is unique and makes our planet diverse. What appeals to me about the cultures of the world is that we still have the opportunity to experience ancient cultures like Inti Raymi in modern-day times. Throughout the world, there are countless ancient cultures and traditions that many people are unfamiliar with. Since the history of humanity, we are changing constantly and parts of these ancient cultures are (rapidly) disappearing. The Jimmy Nelson Foundation gave me the chance to be a part of the Peru project to photograph the Inti Raymi festival with four other photographers that I am very happy and proud of.
Lima, the largest desert city in the world and my first stop before heading for Cusco, the Inca capital. I arrive at the airport in Lima and a 50-year-old man waves to pick me up. I am honored. After a short conversation, I get in the car and we go. As in every metropolis, we are making very slow progress. The mood is bleak and depressing. It is unfamiliar to me, and it felt like it was 45 degrees. Humid and hot, low clouds and a dense fog hovered over the city. I admire the cityscape. “For months it has not rained here and it’s been weeks since I’ve seen the sun,“ says driver Huan Carlos.
In the chaotic evening traffic, we jostle us too. Carlos points to a bottle on my right. I take it in my hand. Carlos says to me: “Chicha Morada. very well “! It is a drink, a mais drink he claims that would help me acclimatize. Hmmm, okay! Acclimatization with a head start. I’ll do that! It is warm, too sweet and has an unusual taste for me. I put it down after the first sip.
Tanin, who is already in Lima, is waiting for me at the hotel. This is located in Miraflores, an upscale neighborhood in Lima. Both traditional buildings and modern skyscrapers make the area a tourist attraction. Casa Andina Select Miraflores, a nice hotel in a street full of shops. It’s already midnight in Hamburg. The flight was very long. Yet we still have to stay awake for the “Meet and Greet” or rather, our first meeting with the team. Part of the team not arrived yet. The schedule is tight, I’ m already closing my eyes. We order beer and burgers and wait for Kieke and Marie in the hotel lobby. Hours pass. Still no sign of the two. Eventually a park a car in front of the hotel, finally they are there. After the meet and greet, I collapse into my bed.
The next day we all sit together at noon on a plane to Cusco. The Inca capital lies at an altitude of 3,399 meters above sea level. A big shift in altitude. “You were born in the Himalayas, nothing will happen to you,“ I hear that it is someone from my photographer Team.
I did not think about the photo motives in advance. I leave it to chance and trust my experience as a photographer. I’m looking forward to Cusco and the Festival of the Sun, Inti Raymi. From the first day, I was surprised with colorful and festive costumes, people celebrating, traditional music and singing on the street. For someone like me, who is in Cusco for the first time, it is not easy to distinguish Inti Raymi from the other similar celebrations that were on at the same time. It looks like overlapping festivals, but not quite as I pictured Inti Raymi to be- what we were there for. According to the motto who knows what it’s good for! I photograph everything that I consider relevant and what comes in front of my lens. In the end, it’s only hidden objects with people. The photos proved to be useless.
The bar is raised. The foundation has high expectations from us all, in addition to my high demands on myself. Meanwhile, I have the fear that I would end up going home with photos that looked like a tourist trip. That’s not the purpose of the project though. That put me under pressure and motivate too at the same time. Make it or break it.
I’ll give it my all on the 24th of June.
In Cusco, we prepare intensively to get the best pictures. We make friends with people who meet us spontaneously. We conduct interviews, get our press passes, and study all three exact routes of the festival.
On the 24th of June, we start our way to the first location, Qorikancha at 5:00 in the morning. The spectators are already seated, seats sold out and packed to the last seat. It is getting more crowded. In front of the large square, a wall of people form that seems impossible to cross. At that moment, however, I get an impulse to cross over. I want to get into the field!
Despite being rejected by the security staff, I managed to get onto the field with my press pass. A mixed sense of fear and joy comes up in me. At any moment someone could bring me off the field again, then everything would be over. Suddenly I bump into a security officer from the military who I met one day ago at the site of Sacsayhuamán. After a short conversation, we got along very well and established a friendly relationship. Now everything is settled and I’m allowed to photograph from the sidelines on the field during the entire performance. What luck!
When it came to an end, I joined the last group of dancers, I follow them and suddenly I was inside of Qorikancha; the holy temple of the Incan Empire, the same one we were banned from entering, even with press passes. I felt like a hero! All 750 musicians and dancers gathered at the courtyard of Qorikancha before the performance continued to Plaza de Armas. I had the chance to select a few faces and take portraits of them in front of a stone wall. Amongst others, I photographed the Inca King, which I am very proud of! These are the things you can not plan before. Besides, I was also stressed about having very little time. I was worried but ready to do what I could.
On the way to the Plaza de Armas, I follow the procession and try to get through the crowd. The king is carried up and from the wagon, he greets the crowd of people who celebrate him. The narrow streets that lead directly to the Plaza de Armas are closed. I don’t get any further. Marie and Tanin joined me, and there was no sign of Kieke. We finally managed to leave the crowd but are still too far from the action. It would be fatal to stay in the audience area and take photos from there. I spontaneously decide to go to the square first. I want to be as close to the action as possible.
I enjoyed my time on the court for about ten minutes, then I get caught by security guards. I am accused of having crossed the line between the dancers and the dancers. Amount. I’m just led from there behind the leash to take a picture. When the performance in the Plaza de Armas is over, I am approached by a photographer and the woman who gave us the press passes. Marie was caught too. We try to clarify the situation, we made a mistake and we were sorry. Even the twenty apologies did not help. In the end, they took our press cards and Inti Raymi was ready for us. It was unhappy. However, I had a strong will to shoot the best photos I could. Afterward, I thought that if I had not risked it, I would have never taken the photos that I did.
Peru is a fascinating country with different cultures and traditions. In addition to Inti Raymi, this country has much more to offer. With a week in Cusco, I could only experience a fraction of Peru. I will travel to Peru again.
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Tanin Kayvan
Tanin Kayvan
To me culture is a powerful expression of what it means to be human. Not only can we use it to explore and appreciate what makes us different, but most importantly, all that makes us the same. I’ve always wanted to go to Peru and I can’t wait to begin our journey.
Instagram: @taninkayvan
To me, culture is a powerful expression of what it means to be human. Not only can we us it to explore and appreciate what makes us different, but most importantly, all that makes us the same. I have spent the last two years photographing ethnic groups across Asia. Having always wanted to go to Peru, I was excited to begin our journey. Before going on this trip I didn’t expect it to be as challenging as it was. I thought well hey, a cultural festival can’t be THAT difficult to document… it wasn’t long until I was proved wrong.
As much as I loved what we were doing, I would be lying if I said I wasn’t stressed for a majority of it. I don’t think most people don’t understand the amount of work that goes into creating photography and film content. When we see a stunning image online it’s a culmination of stress, trial, error, beauty, ease, creativity and flow. Despite feeling stressed, this trip really taught me the importance of preparation. As someone who prefers spontaneity I’ve learned that there are some things you just can’t proceed with unprepared otherwise you will be left feeling more stressed than necessary.
When we all arrived in Cusco I was really excited to begin shooting. People in bright and colorful costumes flooded the streets, but with the sun beating down with such intensity I was worried I wouldn’t be able to capture them in a way that showcased the beauty I was witnessing in person. Nonetheless we made the best of it. I was lucky to be with a team of talented individuals who were all about supporting one another, and the stray dogs running around all over the city never failed to put a smile on my face!
Walking around the city we explored many of the local shops. On one of our walks Marieke spotted a woman who was making costumes. Turns out she was making costumes for the festival and there was a place across the street that made all of them! We went in and asked if we could take some photos and get a closer look at the participants. They graciously said yes and it became a great opportunity for us to learn more about the festival.
When festival day came we got up nice and early and made our way to the first site where they would be preforming. It was really difficult to get close to the participants during the actual festival so it wasn’t until after the performances where we could take some close up shots. During the second performance Ram and Marieke had some difficulties, which meant that only Kieke and I could go photograph the last part of the festival in the sacred site of Sacsayhuaman. Just before the final performance began I saw a bunch of the participants lining up to go on to the field so I rushed over to them to get some shots.
After the big day food and sleep was all I could think about. Kieke and I went to get some food and then headed back to the hotel to reunite with Ram and Marieke. Documenting this festival was not easy, but it was a great way to learn about a culture I previously knew nothing about. Despite being such a small country, Peru is extremely diverse and has so much to offer and teach the world. A place full of colors, stunning landscapes, ancient cultures, and kind hearts that are unforgettable.
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Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart
Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart
Kieke van Maarschalkerwaart is the project manager of the Jimmy Nelson Foundation and went to Tanzania for the Founadtion with the team.
She has the heart of a true adventurer and story-teller. Having travelled the world as a tour guide around the world she was also the camerawomen joining Jimmy Nelson to his travels in Siberia. “No journey is the same and it is always surprising to see what crosses your path. I like to be challenged to stay inventive and creative: whether this is an adventurous far away destination, or more relaxed, and close-by home.”
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thank you
Añay
Thank you to everyone who was involved in this project. A special thank you goes to the lovely people below, it would not have been possible without your support. Añay
David Anca Cuyo
Milagros Fernandez
Saul Dalens
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stay in the know
Subscribe to the mailing list to keep up with updates from the Jimmy Nelson Foundation. And don’t worry... we don’t like spam either